This archive report was first published on 9 November 2019.
Located on the Kenyan coast, Lamu Old Town is the oldest continually inhabited town, boasting a rich cultural heritage and authentic Arabic architectural fabric.
Our journey begins at Subira House, a budget-friendly accommodation that showcases Omani architecture of eras past. The house stands out from surrounding Swahili houses with its higher ceilings for self-ventilation, absence of zidaka niches, and grandiose air.
As we explore the town, we hire a local guide to take us on a walking tour, which is best done in the morning as the town comes to a close at 12:30pm. Our first stop is the historic Msikiti wa Pwani mosque, said to be almost 900 years old.
The mosque gets its name from a high wall that would keep away the water during high tide, although the shoreline has since receded. The narrow alleyways are a result of the town's history, where houses were constructed without considering the presence of cars.
As we wander through the town, we notice the abundance of cats, a sight that is both fascinating and intimidating. The stone houses, built in the 18th and 17th centuries, are still intact, with some made from dead coral and plastered with limestone.
Each house has a front porch raised above the street level, lined with stone seats called a baraza, where people could socialize with the house owner before starting their day. The intricately carved wooden doors open to an inner porch overlooking a courtyard, if the family has space.
For ventilation, parallel galleries regulate the breeze, while the absence of a modern-day drainage system means that bathwater runs through narrow channels constructed into the side of each house, depositing into the sea. Some houses have a birika, a bath filled with water and tiny fish that ward off mosquitoes and keep the bath clean.
As we explore the town, we notice the stark contrast between Lamu and Nairobi. Our guide treats us to labaneer, a sweet candy made with milk, sugar, and cardamom, which we enjoy on the balcony of our room.
However, the sound of rap music blaring from a boda-boda in the alleyway below interrupts the peaceful atmosphere, a stark reminder of the town's fast-changing world. In a world where technology is advancing rapidly, it's essential to preserve Lamu's innocence and leave it untouched.
As I sit on the rooftop of the house, enjoying freshly baked bread with homemade jam, I'm grateful for the opportunity to experience Lamu's present state while it still can. The surrounding sea of houses and the innocent song of nursery-age kids singing their ABC's in a nearby class are a testament to the town's charm.
