This archive report was first published on 16 June 2020.
Kenya's textile industry is facing a crisis, with many local firms struggling to stay afloat. To address this issue, the industry is calling for a permanent ban on second-hand clothes, also known as Mitumba.
The ban was initially imposed by the Kenya Bureau of Standards (KEBS) in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, but it has been extended several times. The Leather Apex Society of Kenya (LASK) is now urging the government to make the ban permanent, arguing that it will give the local sector an opportunity to revive.
According to LASK, a permanent ban on second-hand imports will help induce demand for locally-finished products. This, in turn, will create jobs and stimulate economic growth.
However, the move has been met with resistance from the United States, which has threatened to impose trade penalties if the ban is implemented. The US has argued that there is no scientific evidence to support the claim that second-hand clothes can spread the virus.
Jackie King, executive director of the Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (Smart), said in April that there is no supporting evidence that COVID-19 can be transmitted through second-hand textiles. She described Kenya's ban as a 'disingenuous attempt' to stop the second-hand clothing trade.
Despite the opposition, LASK is pushing ahead with its campaign, arguing that the local industry has the capacity to supply the market with affordable products. Beatrice Mwasi, LASK secretary-general, said that local industries have sufficient capacity to supply the market with affordable products in an environment that offers economies of scale.
