The event, which includes 67 catwalk presentations for the 2027 Spring-Summer collection, also features private showings across Paris. Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will unveil their collections on Tuesday, with Saint Laurent’s Belgian creative director Anthony Vaccarello potentially facing a final runway appearance after a decade of leadership. Industry leaders are undergoing significant changes as brands seek to adapt. Kering, parent company of Balenciaga, is reportedly evaluating Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli following challenges in sustaining sales levels post-Demna. Meanwhile, Chloe’s artistic director Chemena Kamali faces pressure over profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz. Pascal Morand of the French Haute Couture and Fashion Federation noted the sector’s shift, stating, 'The major groups, mid-sized brands, and young designers are not affected in the same way.'
Despite broader challenges, some brands are thriving. Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy, who took the helm a year ago, has driven renewed interest, with long queues at boutiques. MaXhosa Africa, founded by Laduma Ngxokolo in 2010, made its official debut, promoting Xhosa heritage with support from figures like Michelle Obama and Beyoncé. Canadian label Matières Fécales, known for its provocative name chosen to prioritize design over branding, concluded the first day’s events. The week’s events underscore the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, balancing tradition and innovation. Following shows by Julie Kegels, Weinsanto, and Hodakova, Matières Fécales’ 7:00 p.m. presentation will mark the close of the first day, highlighting the blend of cultural storytelling and commercial strategy shaping Paris Fashion Week.
Industry big beasts Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will send their models out on Tuesday. It could be a last show for Saint Laurent’s Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello, who has been the driving force behind the brand’s success for the past decade but is reportedly heading for the exit. If his departure is confirmed, he is unlikely to be the only creative director heading for the chop as label owners and chief executives look to revive their fortunes in a tough commercial environment for luxury brands. At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is reportedly in the sights of parent company Kering, having failed in the difficult task of maintaining sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna, according to specialist blog Miss Tweed. At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali, in the job since 2023, is also being pushed towards the door over a lack of profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz.
Paris Women’s Fashion Week 2027 opened on Monday with bold debuts from South Africa’s MaXhosa Africa and Canadian label Matières Fécales, bringing fresh energy to an industry navigating a commercial slump. A total of 67 catwalk shows for 2027 Spring-Summer have been planned for this Fashion Week, with dozens of other brands set to show their designs in private viewings and events around the French capital. Another brand with reason for cheer is MaXhosa Africa, a luxury knitwear group founded in 2010 by textile designer Laduma Ngxokolo, who has already shown collections privately in Paris but has now been invited to join the official programme. On a mission to promote South African culture and the traditions of the Xhosa people, Ngxokolo counts Michelle Obama and Beyoncé as fans. With his first show on Monday, he will be hoping to emulate the success of Matières Fécale, the Canadian brand which first appeared in March last year but has gone on to dress a host of celebrities and A-listers. Its unusual name — which means faecal matter in French — was chosen to ensure that people who bought the brand’s clothing only wanted it for the design, rather than the name on the label.