This archive report was first published on 27 August 2019.
As I stepped off the bus in Kigali, Rwanda, in August 2019, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement and trepidation. I had been dreaming of visiting this beautiful country for years, ever since reading Hannah Jansen's Over a Thousand Hills I Walk with You in 2011.
My journey began with a dramatic bus ride from Kampala, which left me feeling a bit shaken but also exhilarated. The bus driver's aggressive driving style was a far cry from the smooth roads I was used to in Nairobi, but it was an adventure I would never forget.
After a long and grueling bus ride, I finally arrived in Kigali and was struck by the city's cleanliness and greenery. The hills that surrounded the city were a constant reminder of the country's nickname, the 'land of a thousand hills.'
One of the highlights of my trip was visiting the Kigali Genocide Memorial, a somber and humbling experience that left me in awe. The memorial is a must-visit for anyone interested in learning about the country's history and paying respects to the victims of the 1994 genocide.
Our guide, a genocide survivor, shared with us her story and offered a poignant reflection on the perpetrators of the genocide: 'The perpetrators are suffering now more than we are because they can't walk around with clear consciences. That's enough punishment.'
Throughout my trip, I was struck by the resilience and hospitality of the Rwandan people. From the bustling markets to the beautiful architecture, there was no shortage of things to see and do in Kigali.
One of the most memorable experiences of my trip was trying the local nyama choma at Carwash Grill, which was said to have the best in town. The perfectly salted, soft, and juicy meat was a highlight of my trip, and the drinks, although overpriced, were a nice touch.
As I prepared to leave Rwanda, I couldn't help but feel a sense of sadness and longing. The country had left an indelible mark on my heart, and I knew that I would never forget my journey to the land of a thousand hills.