This archive report was first published on 9 August 2019.
What Are Milia? ¶
Published on August 9, 2019, by Maddie Aberman, milia are tiny keratin-filled cysts on the surface of the skin, often confused with whiteheads or acne breakouts.
"Milia are tiny keratin-filled cysts on the surface of the skin," says Dr. Marnie Nussbaum, clinical instructor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College. "They are often confused with whiteheads or acne breakouts. However, these bumps are filled with hard balls of keratin, as opposed to liquid sebum and bacteria. And they cannot be extruded easily."
Those hard balls of keratin are due to a buildup of dead skin cells and sebum, aka your skin's natural oils. Because of their round shape and white color (milia appear as white on all skin tones, FYI), they are sometimes described as tiny pearls, says Renée Rouleau, celebrity esthetician.
"They are not associated with surrounding redness or inflammation like acne," says Dr. Nussbaum. "You'll be able to identify milia bumps from their placement—they are most often found around the eyes, nose, and on cheeks."
How To Get Rid Of Milia ¶
1. Exfoliate Regularly ¶
Regular exfoliation with an alpha hydroxy acid (like glycolic or lactic acids) will help clear out dead skin cells, and salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid) will help tone down your oil production. In combination, like in this peel from The Ordinary, they can help keep milia in check.
"Start with a low potency product once or twice weekly, then you can titrate up to more frequently or a higher potency product as tolerated," says Dr. Nussbaum.
2. Start Using Retinol ¶
"Retinols are extremely helpful in preventing and treating milia, as they increase skin-cell turnover and therefore help bring cells to the surface to prevent their formation," says Dr. Nussbaum. However, you should skip using retinol on your upper eyelids, which can cause irritation (also skip retinol if you're pregnant or breastfeeding).
3. Make An Appointment For Professional Extraction ¶
Do not try to squeeze them at home. There's a thin layer of skin covering the buildup, so nothing will come out, and you'll be at risk of scarring, says Dr. Nussbaum. A skincare professional will need to use a needle to poke that top layer and create a pathway for the tough keratin and sebum to get out.
